Cairo trip, chapter 4: The Khan El Khalili bazaar

Part 1:

Tuesday, January 27, was the first day of the English teaching conference at American University of Cairo. Conference registration and presentations would begin at 2 pm, with my workshop contribution scheduled for that day at 5:00 p.m. Plenty of time to take in some other activities and sights. So Jesus and I caught a cab downtown to check out and photograph the scene around the big bazaar, Khan El Khalili. If we could find it, that is. We immediately went the wrong direction, ending up in a warren of alleyways around the Hussein Mosque (we later learned we were in one of the older parts of town, which in Cairo means pretty darn old). This modest neighbourhood offered a view of everyday life in the shadow of the giant mosque – students from the madrasa were gathering before class for a cup of tea; groups of men sat outside the mosque discussing important matters; deliverymen strode down the alleyways carrying loads of bread or fruit on their heads; women were out sweeping the roads in front of their doorways or hanging out laundry.

Cairo trip, chapter 4: The Khan El Khalili bazaar

Part 2:

Once we’d finished exploring the area around Hussein Mosque, we figured it was time to find the big bazaar. That task proved more difficult than we anticipated. We wandered here and there, and even consulted my map, but it still took a while to figure out that the market seemed to consist of many smaller markets – one selling clothing and assorted housewares, a spice market, a jewellery and metal-work area, etc. Of course, some areas were much more touristy than others. And the more touristy stalls featured some hard-selling vendors. I left without buying very many souvenirs (which I later regretted as I had few little gifts to distribute once back home). But, I just can’t stand super-pushy vendors, and my ultimate response to them, if they won’t back off (and they seem pathogenically unable to) is just to exit the shop, often with the salesman in hot pursuit, waving the contested souvenir and shouting angrily at my back. Not an enjoyable shopping experience. I really think Middle Eastern (and Mexican, for that matter) vendors need training in effective soft-sell techniques suited for American customers. We just can’t take the hard-sell; in fact, we (I) find it personally affronting.

Cairo, chapter 4 - The Khan El Khalili bazaar

Part 3:

For the most part, Jesus and I were able to take photos without offending anyone or being forced to buy anything. Once we found the spice market, especially, there were countless colourful photo opportunities, and no one seemed to mind our lingering over the bags of spices. Despite the photogenicity (new word) of the spice market, I think I prefer taking surreptitious snapshots of people shopping for household items. I saw such contrast between the array of negligees and slinky, sparkling dresses on display and the black-robe-encased women who were seemingly meant to buy them. Made me wonder what those women are all wearing under their shapeless, head-to-toe coverings.

By the time we’d finished wandering through the market and rested with a cup of exorbitantly priced tea (about $3 per cup), the hour was well past 2 pm. Although we were near the conference location, I had to go back to the hotel to change clothes and grab my stuff. By now, unfortunately, traffic was busy and s l o w. It took about 20 minutes just to go the first few blocks, and I began to despair of getting to Zamalek and back in less than two hours. But, the worst traffic jam was just near the market, and we managed to get back within a half hour or so. After a desperately quick change, I jumped in yet another cab and sped back toward the city center. I made it to the conference site about an hour before my presentation and used the time to find my room, set up and review my notes. Time well spent.

My workshop/presentation went all right, although attendees kept coming and going throughout (arriving late, leaving early). Finally, another ELF who was attending planted herself outside the door and refused any further admittances or departures. I guess such behaviour is not considered rude in Egypt; I certainly found it disruptive.