Sunday, December 7, 2008

U.S. Election

I was thrilled to wake up on November 5 and turn on CNN (and BBC and Al Jazeera) to find out that Barack Obama had won the presidential election. Granted, I knew he was ahead going into election day, but the last two presidential elections made me a bit paranoid as to the wisdom of the American voting public. But that public has apparently expanded to include more people who share my views.

The pictures posted here are from the U.S. Embassy's Election Breakfast Reception, to which the Journalism students and I were most kindly invited. More than half the students turned out to catch a kombi to Mbabane at 6:30 a.m. – quite a good turnout for that hour, I thought. The reception was packed with the Swazi elite (ministers, tribal chiefs, foreign diplomats), so I think it was an exciting event for the students. Of course, we arrived late (not everyone was ready for the kombi at 6:30, plus the driver didn't seem able to read the map I'd given him) but we got there in time to hear Ambassador Parker's toast and to take in his Q&A session on the election results in the media room. Most of the students were very attentive, and some took advantage of the opportunity to observe and speak with members of the press who were there to cover the event. A few other students took advantage of the self-serve champagne until finally chased away
by indignant embassy staff. Of course, I heard about that; in fact the entire country did, as I learned on Thursday that the undisciplined behaviour of those students was mentioned in a Times of Swaziland article the next day. Well, I guess now UNISWA knows not to send me on field trips as the only chaperone. Fortunately, my department head found the story amusing; I seem to be the only person who feels shamed by it.

It has been great to see how excited most Africans are about this first African American, son-of-an-immigrant president. His triumph embodies so many hopes of people here, both in terms of renewing faith in the notion of the American Dream and in the example people have told me it presents to African nations. Namely that a member of a formerly oppressed minority can be peacefully elected as a great country's leader. Not every single person I've met here supported Obama's election (a few thought he lacked experience), but I'd say 90% of the people I've talked to are delighted to see him take office.

Photos attached:
most of the students waiting at the kombi (we picked up 4 more on the way out)
Ambassador Parker toasting the election results (proof that at least some of the champagne made it into non-student bodies)
a man (probably a chief) in traditional garb mingles among the suits
the ambassador explaining election results on the projected computer screen
the ambassador posing with some of the students

Mozambique trip - part 4 (including a Swazi homestead side-trip)

As usual, the trip back seemed faster than the trip to -- I wonder what laws of physics or human psychological perception govern that phenomenon.

I drove as far as the border. We actually returned via a different border crossing although I don't think the distance was any shorter. We also stopped just inside the Swazi border to visit the homestead of Nomsa's aunt and uncle. Their granddaughter showed Laura and me around a little – it's a lovely spot.

Laura kindly took over and drove my car the rest of the way to Matsapha, where the group at last parted company.

Photos attached are of Nomsa's relatives and their homestead.

Mozambique trip - part 3

Around noon on Sunday, we tried to visit one last museum before leaving town – the art museum – but were thwarted again, as it didn't open until 2:00 p.m. So, we visited a small, nearby market, where we could not find the cashews Nomsa and I both desired. Then we drove to and tried the central market, which was also closed. Sunday is apparently not a good day for shopping or tourist activities. By 1:30 or so we had given up and decided to head out of Maputo.

The attached photos show the group (including local 'guides' from the museum) walking through the little market plus several scenes of market activity (or inactivity, as the case may be)

Mozambique - part 2

On Saturday, we tried to go to the geology museum, which for some reason wasn't open – we were told this was because the day before was payday. So we went back to see the rest of the Natural History Museum, then went to a local craft market before lunch. I found the craft market expensive and the vendors extremely aggressive, but I did manage to buy a couple things before we were told it was time to move on. Unfortunately, that was my only real chance to shop. I wished at the end of the trip that I'd stopped at some of the stands we passed.

As I packed to leave on Sunday morning, I was told that someone had tried to steal one of the side indicator lamps off the boombox as it was parked outside our hostel. Fortunately, he was frightened away and left the lamp on the ground – either that, or the guard who had claimed to stop the thief had done the deed himself in order to claim a reward. No matter – I gave the guy 100 metacali (about $5) and stuck the lamp in the trunk. (On Monday, I talked the cable guys into reattaching it for me; sometimes it's good to play the helpless female…).

Our first stop on Sunday morning was to take in a walk along the beach, which is only a few minutes drive from the busy city center. Unfortunately there was no surf to play in, but I enjoyed walking in the sand and watching women gather shellfish.

Attached are photos showing several beach views, some women gathering shellfish and a pair of fruit carts on the street near the geology museum.

Mozambique trip -- part 1

On the weekend of Friday, October 24 through Sunday the 26th, I joined a group expedition with staff from the Swazi National Museum to Maputo, Mozambique. The trip was to visit, learn about and strengthen ties to museums in Maputo, especially the Natural History Museum there. We took two cars – mine and Nomsa's, and five people went. The plan was to meet in Manzini by 8:15 am with the goal of arriving in Maputo by 11 am. Of course, we got a late start, which I suppose is inevitable with a group. Some people needed to shop for supplies, someone needed money, etc. The border crossings also took quite a while. I was a bit worried that I might be turned back, as I hadn't yet managed to change the title on my car. (I couldn't do that until my work permit is issued, which just happened the week of November 24 – in fact I finally got the title changed over on the 26th). Anyway, I took with me as much paperwork as I could to show that I really
had purchased the car and applied for the title transfer. Surprisingly (or perhaps not), other than looking at the blue book/title, which was clearly not in my name, no one asked me anything.

What with all the delays and the crazy Friday afternoon traffic we encountered once we entered the city (Maputo's population is about 1.1 million), we didn't get to the Natural History Museum until 2:30; and it closes at 3:30. We had just enough time for a back-stage-type tour to see how the catalog database works and how insects are preserved and stored. Then we headed for our hostel to check in. The hostel was full, with only one private room left (which Laura nabbed), so I ended up in the 6-bed dorm room. By the end of our stay, I'd become surprisingly agile at clambering up and down from my top bunk.

On Friday evening, Lucilia arranged for us all to go to a big seafood restaurant near the water with her and four of her staff. Mozambique is known for its seafood, and the fish and prawns were lovely and fresh. Lucilia also invited us to her house in the suburbs for lunch on Saturday, where we again had seafood. She served crab, which most of our group had never tried. They liked it.

The following photos are attached:
a street scene near the museums
part of the lion diorama at the Natural History Museum
a view of the snakes-in-glass display at the same museum
my collegues waiting fruitlessly for the geology museum to open
the lovely seafood lunch Lucilia served in her suburban home
cranky street vendors near the hostel (should have bought something before taking their photo, I guess)

more orphanage photos

Here are some additional photos from the orphanage trip. I've found a way to email them separately from the initial blog posting. The photos include one of children hanging out their laundry among what look like banana trees, a view of the surrounding area and the dirst road as we drove toward the orphanage, some boys playing around building materials stacked near their dorm and a shot of the ill-fated Nissan resting in its mountaintop parking spot.

Monday, December 1, 2008

More on orphanage visit

As I'm having trouble uploading photos on the blog site, here is an attempt to email some photos of the orphanage visit.

If these work, there should be the following pictures:

Children running to open the gate to the compound.
The cook in the kitchen preparing a big vat of pap.
Laura and Margie, the volunteer who invited us, standing in front of the infant house.
One of the orphanage buildings.

Friday, November 28, 2008

Orphanage visit, part 2

The orphanage/children’s home (not all the kids there are orphans) is definitely in a beautiful, if somewhat inaccessible, spot. There are beautiful views from every direction. The home was started by the South African couple just a few years ago. They began with basically nothing, and now there are about 8 or 9 buildings. These include a girls’ dorm, a boys’ dorm, an infant house, a dining hall/kitchen, a school, a church, a guest-house, the teachers’ house and the directors’ dwelling (unless perhaps that includes guest premises; I’m not sure). Thanks to volunteer labor and outside support, the place has really expanded. Margie works in the infant house, which is one of the newer buildings. It houses children up to age 6, and I think there are 12 little ones there right now. We got to meet and play with them before moving on to tour the rest of the facility. Quite a few of the children are AIDS orphans, and some of them have HIV. A few of those have not survived, especially if they developed TB along with HIV – that double whammy is too deadly. The children with HIV do receive anti-viral medication from the Baylor University clinic in Mbabane, which focuses specifically on treating HIV-positive children and their families. The orphanage relies on local donations of food like eggs and produce along with monetary support from Christian groups both inside and outside the country. The school that’s been built serves the whole area and as it is charity-run, it doesn’t have to charge school fees. That helps the poor families in the area afford to send their children. The church was built by a specific evangelical denomination (maybe Assembly of God), Margie said, but the orphanage insisted that the church be non-denominational; after some disagreement, the sponsoring church group agreed, so any Christian group can use the structure for services. I was quite impressed with the efforts that are being made and the dedication of Margie and the other workers there. The children seemed well cared for and happy, if a bit isolated. But then, I think many children in rural Swaziland are pretty isolated.

Orphanage visit, part 1

On Saturday, September 27, I probably should have stuck around on campus to take photos of the king, who as university chancellor would be attending the graduation ceremonies. Instead I opted to get off campus to avoid the traffic and heightened security from that event.

I headed into Mbabane early – about 8:30 – and met Laura for breakfast at the mall. Then we both drove back to her house, where we left her car, and finally set out towards Piggs Peak to visit a children’s home called Al Saddai??? (sounds Muslim; I don’t know why, as it’s an unabashedly Christian establishment). It was my turn to play driver, as Laura had ferried me around for weeks before I got my car (the previous weekend). Unfortunately, I wasn’t feeling very well, probably from something I ate or drank, but I agreed to drive anyway. Once on the road, I did not feel better; instead, I began to channel the likes of my infamous Uncle Buster (or any old-school male driver in the family, for that matter). I became fixated on getting to the destination, and seemed completely incapable of making any stop for any reason. We passed numerous gorgeous views, but did I stop – heck no! I had to get there, dammit – so I could get back, of course. Once we exited the freeway, the road was tarred but narrow (sometimes shoulderless, really) and was littered with the usual array of pedestrians, livestock and slow-moving vehicles like logging trucks. So, the conditions really demanded complete attention, but I still could have pulled over now and then. I’m sure that would have helped me de-stress a bit.

I think it took about an hour and a half to get to Piggs Peak, at which point the directions Laura had been given became less than clear. We stopped at a hardware store then at the police station for directions. Then Laura finally called Margie, a woman who volunteers at the orphanage and who invited us there. She clarified the directions, and it turned out we’d overshot the turnoff a bit (but not as much as I frustratedly thought at first). We headed back and found the road to Maguga dam and drove over that (another lovely photo op ignored…) then drove on a bit more to find a dirt road that would supposedly lead us right to the orphanage. That road was awful (but I’ve already described it, so nevermind). We did take one wrong turn on the dirt road before finally winding our way to the top of the mountain. Finally we were met by a flock of children who ran before us to the gate and opened it. At last we were in!

Saturday, October 11, 2008

Swazi Wedding - video

I’m not sure what sentiments are conveyed in this dance up to the groom’s family. It looks filled with bravado – almost like a mock challenge, but I never found out the actual meaning. The fellow involved did later offer to take me home, explaining that he was looking for a white girlfriend (such offers are a common joke here). And shortly before we left, he sidled up to translate the song that the women were currently singing and dancing to. He said the lyrics were “I’m afraid to sleep alone.” Fortunately, I am not.

Swazi Wedding - installment 4 (the ceremony)








Around 3:30 p.m., we finally saw the bride’s family, in traditional regalia, advancing toward the tented viewing area. First, the matrons led a procession into the paddock and past the bemused cattle. Then the family marched and sang their way back to assemble in an open area across from where the groom’s family and guests had gathered. Then offerings were laid before the women of the groom’s family and various people danced and sang before them. After that, the whole group began to dance and sing to accompany the bride toward her new family. Most members of the groom’s family, other than the groom and his groomsmen, did not appear to join in the dancing. Eventually, the bride and groom met up and began to dance as family members gave them offerings of oranges and of money (which they stuck in the bride’s large, feathered headdress). The dancing and singing looked to continue for some time, as everyone involved seemed to be having great fun. Unfortunately, it was now approaching 5:00 p.m., and we had to leave. And I was really looking forward to trying the samp!

Swazi Wedding - installment 3 (waiting for the ceremony to start)





After visiting the bride’s contingent, we (Laura, Bheki, Simon the wedding photographer, and I) wandered around some more examining the damage caused by the last five years of drought in the low veld. The earth in places looked like concrete rather than anything resembling soil, and the cattle we saw looked very thin. Many of the neighbors' homesteads also did not look very prospersous.

Swazi Wedding -- installment 2 (the bride's campsite)





After meeting the groom’s family, we wandered over to the area where the bride’s family had gathered. According to custom, the bride’s family would not be allowed onto the groom’s homestead until the ceremony began. However, nowadays, the practice is for the bride’s family to stay within the compound overnight then move to their official off-site camping area in the morning and stay there until the ceremony. We were sorry to see that the bridal group was not in a hurry to get going. Most were still lazing about under fleecy blankets while others prepared food provided by the groom. Perhaps the chilly weather that day (mid teens, Celsius) was slowing people down, or perhaps we were the only attendees who thought the affair was supposed to start before late afternoon.

Swazi Wedding - installment 1 (the homestead)







On Saturday, September 27, I was lucky enough to attend a traditional Swazi wedding ceremony with Laura and her colleague Bheki (who was the person actually invited). It was a long day. We met at the museum at 9:00 a.m., then collected some traditional fabric to wear so we’d ‘blend in’ (ha). It took maybe an hour and a half to get to the homestead of Wisdom, the groom, in the Malindza area of the low veld. We arrived, then, around 11:30, but nothing was close to happening yet – just lots of preparations still going on. The men were preparing fabric for their traditional garb and the younger women were cooking mass amounts of pap (maize porridge) and samp (a cracked corn dish reminiscent of succotash), among other things. The older women were huddled inside against the chilly day drinking tea and eating as they visited. These were all members of the groom’s family. We were shown around the homestead and introduced to people, then sat and drank tea in the new, nearly finished house Wisdom is building. He told us the younger members of the family all live elsewhere at least part-time although they have built dwellings on the compound. The grandmother, or go-go, is the only family member living on the homestead full-time. Her large, round, thatch-roofed dwelling is the largest in the compound and functions as a family meeting center. Plus, the big, outdoor kitchen is attached to her dwelling. The go-go definitely holds the highest status in the family, which I find interesting as, otherwise, Swazi culture seems male-dominated. (i.e., men can take multiple wives but women can’t take multiple husbands).

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Transport!



As of September 26, I have transportation. It’s a 2000 Nissan Sunny ex saloon (I hoped that meant there was a minibar in the trunk but it turned out to be CD changer). Actually, this vehicle is a rolling boombox, with a bass-boosted stereo system that blows small livestock off the shoulder as I pass by (not that I would ever play my music that loud). The first day I drove it, I ended up driving home in the dark in the rain on a Saturday night on the left-hand side of the 2-lane Ezulwini road – a baptism by fire, of sorts. I just kept telling myself that eventually I’d get home and then I’d know I’d survived the worst driving experience that was in store. Well, I made it home, but now I realize there are probably many more worsts in store given the roads here. Ezulwini Road was harrowing mostly because of the dark and rain and my unfamiliarity with the road and with sitting on the right while driving on the left. For the most part, that road is in good shape and fairly well marked (better than roads in Alaska).

The following Saturday, in a new vehicular trial, the boombox and I ended up on what seemed like an endless expanse of rutted, narrow, rocky, hilly and steeply winding dirt road. We were travelling to an orphanage near Piggs Peak, which was already a fairly long drive from Mbabane. So there was no point in turning back. The boombox made it all the way there, but when Laura and I went to leave about an hour and a half later, it refused to start. Would not even turn over. I opened the hood and noticed that one battery terminal connection had bounced loose. So I tightened it, and (hurrah) the car started. But, once it started, the hazard lights began to flash and they would not shut off. I believe the poor vehicle was voicing its opinion of the road conditions it had been forced to travel. We had to drive all the way back (on the highway and the freeway) with the hazard lights flashing, which of course annoyed other motorists (although they did know to look out for me which, as an American driver, is probably a good thing). The following Monday, I took the car to the mechanic recommended by a colleague. I was worried that, as an electric glitch, the problem might be spendy to find and correct. However, it only cost me E150 (about $20) and two hours of waiting around. It turned out the boombox was, in a way, voicing its disapproval. The problem was a previously installed alarm system that had only been partially disconnected. So the hazard lights should have been accompanied by a shrieking alarm. My guess is that the battery disconnection may have set it off (or the bumpy road, or maybe it was just ready to misbehave.)

More on Mlilwane -- specifically, Stu




Our guide, Stu, as I've already said, was very knowledgeable about the flora and fauna and even the poo to be found in the park. In the second picture here, he is explaining why hippo poo is so filled with undigested vegetation (hippos are not ruminants). We later decided that some of the folklore he related to us (e.g., the magic male-enhancing powers of the 'sausage-tree' fruit) may have been more amusing than informative.

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary



Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, which we visited on September 6, is small and lacking in the “big five” (lion, leopard, rhino, buffalo, elephant); plus, we didn’t arrive there until noon when most animals are on siesta. Still, on a 1 ½-hour tour with our knowledgeable guide Stu, we saw crocodiles, wildebeests, zebras, impalas, blesboks, antelopes and different birds. We also just enjoyed riding around in an open-top vehicle on a perfect sunny day.