Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Umhlanga (Reed Dance)




The Umhlanga, or Reed Dance, was very impressive. Tens of thousands of young girls, grouped by regions and dressed in a variety of traditional costumes (and all, somehow, “certified” virgins), marched and sang in an hours-long procession around a huge field and in front of King Mswati III, his 13 wives and the Queen Mother. Then the groups moved into the center of the field and danced. Several smaller groups (perhaps a couple hundred, total) of spear-wielding, loin-cloth-clad men occasionally left the stands to dance among the girls. The king joined these men in a tour of the maidens; in the past, he has been known to pick one (maybe more -- I'm not sure) from the crowd to be his newest wife. (FYI: the king has just turned 40; the girls are in their teens.) The event was quite a spectacle and I took many photos.

Friday, September 26, 2008

Meet Laura M.

Here's Laura interviewing some Umhlanga participants for her educational blog that she's doing for a friend's 5th grade class. (I'll include a link to this blog once I figure out how).
And here's Laura with one of her many admirers -- this fellow was attending the 40/40 festivities; believe me, he'd been having a good time.

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On the sociocultural side of life, I’ve met Laura M., a Fulbrighter who is working in somewhat similarly dismaying and disarrayed circumstances at the national museum. Laura reminds me a bit of Don Quixote, as she idealistically tries to bring order and enthusiasm to the under-funded and morale-deprived museum. As she will only be here three months, and thus had no time to waste, Laura immediately rented a little Volkswagen Golf (called a Civic here, I think) and has been fearlessly trundling about the countryside in it. I, like some feminine incarnation of Sancho Panza, squat stalwartly in the passenger’s seat, occasionally exhorting her to “keep left, dammit! “ or “watch out, speed bump!” After driving with Laura for several weeks, I'm in awe of her willingness to take on bovine and human traffic, flooded roads, potholes, and crazy kombi drivers, all while sitting on the right side of the car, shifting with her left hand and driving on the 'wrong' side of the road. She is much more daring than I!

So far, together we’ve attended the Umhlanga ceremony/festival, visited the Mlilwane wildlife sanctuary, braved the aftermath of the 40/40 celebration, and have investigated some of the local ex-pat haunts (e.g., Quartermain’s, which actually serves sushi prepared by real Japanese chefs and has a bar peopled with bow-legged, red-faced, beer-bellied males of Dutch or British descent ). We have even survived a trip to Jo’burg together, which I must say took all our combined fortitude and forbearance.

First Month in Swaziland


I have now been in Swaziland for a month, having arrived on 27 August. Now that I have this blog-site up, I’ll try to post at least weekly. But, for starters, I’ll try to summarize some of what’s happened so far.

Not a lot, at least on the work front here at University of Swaziland. I was scheduled to begin teaching a Newswriting and Reporting class on Wednesday, September 3, but on that day the students went on strike (or a “toyi-toyi” as it’s called here). They held a rally to correlate with union demonstrations going on in nearby Manzini. The students, however, had there own issues to protest – namely, the speedy release of living allowances, a desired increase in living allowances and a desired decrease in the cost of food on campus. No classes could meet that day as I was told that demonstrators would disrupt any classes and force those students in attendance to leave. So I sat in a colleague’s office listening to the chanting going on outside and eventually watching students run past the window pursued by either police or security staff. At that point, I returned to my campus apartment and hid out for the rest of the day. Apparently, the demonstrators did some damage to campus property during the afternoon, so the campus was closed and all students ordered off the premises until further notice. That notice finally came about three weeks later, on Monday the 22nd, when a memo circulated stating that classes would resume on the 25th. So, I’ve actually held one class now, but next week is the official mid-term “short break.” I got to meet my students once and give them a couple weeks worth of homework, but now I won’t see them again until October 8.

While waiting for classes to start, I prepared several weeks of lesson plans and got moved into an office space of my own. The photo above, which I can't yet figure out how to caption, is a shot of the office corridor. In this climate, each office opens to the outside. My office is quite spacious -- about 10 x 12, and has loads of shelves. I've decorated the big bulletin board with an Alaska flag and some postcards. (I am reconsidering this decoration scheme as quite a few people ask me about Sarah Palin once they know where I'm from).
As the UNISWA Journalism & Mass Communications Department (my official host here) only has me scheduled to teach the one course, I’m trying to drum up business with other departments. Most likely, I’ll end up with an academic composition course – I’m told these classes feature well over a hundred students, which will make it next to impossible to assign and give prompt feedback on even a few writing assignments. So far, though, no one seems in a big hurry to make specific arrangements for this additional class. Perhaps, they’re all waiting to see how many students return after the short break. “Wait and see” seems to be a common attitude here, and every official transaction I've been involved with so far has required several layers of bureaucracy.